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Corner Pins |
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Tapped again and again? Are you tired of leaving that persistent ten pin. Well there is a reason that you are leaving them, besides bad luck.
We firmly believe that there is a reason that we leave every pin in the rack. The ten pin (seven pin for left-handers) is the most talked about single pin leave and probably the one that frustrates us the most.
First we must look at what type of ten pin that we leave. Yes, there are a few variations of the ten pin tap.
The first one we will address is the flat, or weak ten. The six pin, which is the key to knocking out the ten, lays in the gutter and provides no aid in knocking down the ten. For most people, this leave happens when that ball hits just a bit weak or light in the pocket. It may also happen because the ball may run out of energy or roll out as it hits the pocket, resulting in deflection instead of driving through the pins.
Here are a few adjustments to reduce the amount of flat tens. One would be to move laterally with the feet to change the angle at which the ball enters the pocket. To combat energy loss, a bowler may want to go to a ball with less friction or change rotation by putting your hand more on the side of the ball at release.
The other type of ten pin is the ringing ten. This happens when the six pin wraps around the ten pin. This is often a result of the ball still hooking into the pocket or late entry angle. To get the ring ten out of the game, a bowler may want to use a ball that has a little less backend or make a lateral move to change the angle.
Bowling is a game of angles, and if you don’t change something you will continually leave that pesky ten pin. Keep an eye on the six pin and it will be your guide as to what type of ten pin you leave and what move you may need to make. |
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Carrydown |
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There is a lot of carrydown. My ball stops hooking. The backends are really tight.
These are a few statements heard throughout leagues and tournaments, but does oil really travel down the lane?
To get that answer, we must address what type of equipment is being thrown down the lane during the competition. There are two categories of equipment that we can look at: low-flaring bowling balls and high-flaring bowling balls
.Bowling balls that fall into the low-flaring category are plastics and most urethanes. This equipment will help lane conditioner travel down the lane because they typically have one ball track or ring and they do not absorb much lane oil. The ball rolls consistently over one ring around the ball, so when it picks up oil in the front of the lane, the oil can transfer to the backend portion of the lane.
High-flaring bowling balls include most of today’s equipment. This equipment will have multiple rings to its ball track and much of the high performance market absorbs oil. As the ball travels down the lane, the ball uses a fresh surface for each flare ring, so there is little to no lane conditioner transfer to the backends.
So now that you have an idea of what is going down the lane, you can better decide if it is carrydown or if your ball is burning up/losing energy.
If you find that carrydown is affecting your ball reaction, you may want to try a ball that gets into a roll a little earlier, so the ball won’t skid too far before turning towards the pocket. You may also try moving right to play a little straighter line to the pocket to increase backend reaction.
If you find that it is not carrydown that makes your ball stop hooking in the backend, you may want to try a ball that is designed for a later breaking reaction, or something that saves its energy to the backend portion of the lane. We hear it all the time: My dry lane ball out-hooks my heavy oil ball. This is because the dry lane ball retains energy and makes a drastic move when it hits friction and the heavy oil ball uses its energy earlier and makes a much slower move in the friction.
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